Tag Archives: Darjeeling

Hot Stimulating Cafe

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In Darjeeling, on the way to the zoo. There is an intriguing little place with a very interesting name, the Hot Stimulating Cafe. There works a quirky odd old guy who goes by the name Rambo. Rambo has put up a mural of Bob Marley (who he colloquially calls Bobby) on the wall and hung egg shells in the trees. I asked why the egg shells were in the trees and he just said “exorcism”. When I pressed for more information he just stated “evil spirits”. So I let that be and ordered his momos and asked what there is to do around the town. First came a sales pitch about buying him as a guide for Himalayan trekking which I skirted around. Then he said get drunk. So I asked him what his drink was and he said “Thumpa”. I then asked if he had any and promptly a wooden cask cup full of fermented millet, wheat, and sugar appeared. To which steaming hot water was added and drank with a bamboo straw. If you’re ever in the hood of Darjeeling I suggest you drop by for some odd convos and some local hooch.

Also I’m not sure if he was hitting on me or not, but I chose to ignore his winking.

Chillaxin in Darjeeling

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I’ve made it out of the heat of the middle India and into the cloudy and heavenly destination of Darjeeling. After the painful but enjoyable/memorable experience of bouncing through some of India’s most amazing and talked about places such as Jaipur (good old deserty fun), Agra (Taj Mahal), Khajuraho (Kama Sutra temples…not exactly what they are called but how everyone knows them), and Varanasi (the city itself); I was in much need of some R&R, so thank the gods for Darjeeling.

Darjeeling has a way different vibe than the aforementioned destinations. First off, it doesn’t smell like shit, literally. If you have ever been to Agra or Varanasi you know what I’m talking about. There is no livestock floating around the streets defecating where ever they like, and the sewers although partially open quickly flow down hill and away from this hill top city (thank you gravity). Also it is much cleaner here. There is garbage collection areas which concentrate the refuge into central locations rather than being ubiquitously distributed all over the streets in other Indian cities; although the garbage seems to be burned daily which is somewhat noxious since often times their is plastic in those piles.

Secondly, the people here in Darjeeling are great. They are friendly and not pushy. You will always find wayward smiles thrown in your direction from an almost shy populace. There also seems to be a quirky mix of religions happening up here. I went to the main temple sight called Observatory hill yesterday and on the main temple structure there was an image of Shiva and a separate image of Buddha (also I think the Bhutanese lightening dragon). I don’t know how this all works out but alas they were there.

Finally, the climate and atmosphere is amazing! It’s cool here with partially clouded skies (sometimes a little too clouded) with amazing views of the Himalayas when the clouds part. Including a great view of Mt. Kanchenjunga which is the third tallest mountain in the world. It’s massive! I’m at an elevation of about 8000 feet and about 100 miles away (I’m guessing) and the mount still looks mammoth from here. Definitely something that has to be seen to be understood.

Anyways, Darjeeling is great for recovery! I already feel better and more energetic. Although I think this place is spoiling me since I’m already feeling timid about catching another 12 hour train down to Calcutta tomorrow where once again I’ll be in the thick of things; fighting off touts, rickshaw drivers, and the stench of Indian cities. Tiger balm on the nostrils here we come!